Hallmark Guide

What is a Hallmark?

A hallmark is a stamped mark that can be found on jewellery items to indicate the purity of gold. The higher the fineness, the more rare and valuable it will be. Purer gold would have fewer impurities in it than an alloy. Hallmarks are usually stamped or engraved into a piece of metal at its base where they cannot be rubbed off easily; for example, a 750 stamp would mean the jewellery is 18-carat yellow gold. The marking indicated the jewellery has 75% pure gold along with 25% of other alloys. The stamp indicates how much gold has been used within the jewellery piece.

Gold in its natural form is slightly reddish yellow in colour. However, in its pure form, it is very soft; therefore, it has to be combined with other harder alloy metals such as zinc, copper, or silver to make it more durable for jewellery and create different colour tones.

This blog post will walk you through what a hallmark is and how you can know what your pieces are made from when buying online or in-person without having to take them apart yourself!

What is a Hallmark?

Why Is gold Jewellery Hallmarked?

Jewellery made from precious metals like solid gold, silver, palladium, or platinum is subject to be hallmarked in the UK. This provides the authenticity of the precious metal the jewellery is made from. Necklaces, rings, chains, rings, pendants and earrings made from precious metals (gold or silver) have a metal stamp that indicates the amount of gold in which they are created.

Since medieval times, this practice has been around when craftsmen were required to stamp work in gold, so its origin could easily be traced back should there ever be any issues over ownership or authenticity of these precious metal-made goods. The very first use of hallmarks is believed.

The only things that are exempt from the hallmarking law are items that weigh less than the legal weight:

  • 0.5 grams for Platinum
  • 1 gram for Gold
  • 1 gram for Palladium
  • 7.78 grams for Sterling Silver

Gold jewellery Hallmark Symbol Meaning

The four hallmark gold jewellery symbols you’ll find when looking at hallmarked in the UK are: ‘916’, ‘750’, ‘583’ and ‘375’. These numbers represent how much gold metal content each symbol stands for; they correspond with percentages of purity levels- so you know how much of the jewellery is made from precious metal.

  • ‘916’ stands for 91.6% pure gold – 22ct Gold Jewellery
  • ‘750’ stands for 75% pure gold – 18ct Gold Jewellery
  • ‘583’ stands for 58.3% pure gold – 14ct Gold Jewellery
  • ‘375’ stands for 37.5% pure gold – 9ct Gold Jewellery

Gold hallmark stamp varies in a classification all over the world, but in the United Kingdom, four types of gold carat marks are common, as stated above.

Gold vermeil jewellery does not contain 100% pure gold. A layer of gold isn’t thick enough to serve as a gold hallmark, so this is stamped 925 on it to identify that the jewellery is sterling silver and not solid gold.

Sterling silver will have the following hallmark stamp:

‘925’ stands for 92.5% pure silver – Sterling Silver Jewellery

 

What is gold hallmark identification?

Since 1998, the letter date has become optional. However, gold hallmark identification includes these three compulsory symbols:

The Sponsor’s Mark – The sponsor’s mark indicates that the hallmarks are registered to a specific business, typically an individual or company. In the United Kingdom, this mark consists of any two letters within a shape chosen by the business (not the same ones).

Hallmarking - Sponsor Hallmark

The Standard Mark – The standard mark tells you what weight of gold was tested and if it passed the tests required by law.

Indicates the precious metal content of the item and that it is of at least the fineness stated. The fineness is indicated by a millesimal number (parts per thousand) and the metal type is indicated by the shape of the surround.

Gold Hallmark Standark Mark

Assay Office Mark or Gold Makers Mark – Mark is found on jewellery to indicate the specific Assay Office at which the metal was tested and marked. In the UK, there are four Assay Offices: London, Birmingham, Edinburgh, and Sheffield.

Assay Office Hallmark

There are many other marks on a Hallmark stamp. But some are optional, and some are old and not used anymore.

Our Commitment to Hallmarking - Gold Makers Mark

Auric Jewellery has Birmingham Gold Makers marks as it is registered with the Birmingham Assay Office, giving you the assurance that our gold jewellery meets all regulations and is traceable. In addition, all stock goes through an internal confirmation process to ensure that it meets the UK’s hallmarking regulations before being dispatched to our customers.

We are an Assay Assured Jewellery Retailer. Assay Assured status is only given to retailers who have been independently audited and Input verified by Assay Assured, which is run and overseen by the Edinburgh Assay Office and ensures that all precious metal jewellery (except items exempt by weight) are independently tested and hallmarked.

Auric Jewellery Hallmark Stamp

Gold Hallmark Identification- Auric Jewellery

How is gold carat determined for Hallmarking?

Gold’s finesse is measured in Carats (ct), sometimes written as Karat (K). This should not be confused with Carats, which specify a diamond’s weight.
Gold is referred to as 24 carats, 24ct, 24K or pure gold in its purest form.

The gold content in a carat is the weight of pure gold or percentage of pure gold in an entire piece. For example, 18ct (sometimes 750) has 18/24 parts or 75% pure gold and 25% alloy.
The most common gold carats used in gold jewellery are 9ct (375), 14ct (585), 18ct(750) and 22ct (916).

Auric Jewellery is committed to transparency. We provide transparent and honest information about the fineness of our jewellery by specifying it in descriptions for each piece under the Specifications so that you can be sure your jewellery has been independently verified to meet industry standards.

What is 18ct Gold Hallmark?

As mentioned above, the 18ct gold hallmark represents the purity level of 18 carat gold. The numbers that follow describe the item’s different properties which are measured in parts per thousand. In this case, it is 750 parts out of 1,000 total parts which means that it is 18-carat gold pure gold in a piece of item.

18ct Gold Hallmark

On top of that, it is necessary to mention about “British Standard” which is expressed as 750.

What is the difference between 18ct gold vermeil and 18ct solid gold?

Gold Vermeil should not be confused with solid gold jewellery such as (750) 18ct Solid Gold jewellery. Gold vermeil is a term used for sterling silver jewellery that has been plated with 18ct gold (0.0025mm).

The thickness of the gold layer on Gold Vermeil needs to be at least 2.5 microns(0.0025mm). Some people mistakenly think they are buying real 18ct Gold when in fact they have purchased Sterling Silver coated in a thin layer of 0.0025mm worth of gold plate which is valueless when you go to resell this piece of jewellery. It is important to understand that gold vermeil is not gold, it’s simply sterling silver with a layer of gold.

18ct solid gold jewellery, also called 18k in yellow, white or rose gold is made with 75% pure gold and 25% other alloys including copper or silver.

In terms of Hallmarking, a gold vermeil jewellery piece will be hallmarked as Sterling Silver (925), whereas real gold jewellery is hallmarked according to its fineness, for example, 9ct, 14ct, or 18ct.

Please note that jewellery marketed as 18ct gold may actually be plated or vermeil and not 18ct Real Gold.

Auric Jewellery only sells 18ct Solid Gold Jewellery. Read more about ‘What is 18ct gold?’ in our blog post.

The Differences Between Yellow Gold and Rose Gold

Gold or yellow gold has a somewhat yellowish hue in its natural state, but when it’s combined with other alloy metals like zinc and copper it becomes more durable–and can be made to take on many different hues.

Rose gold on the other hand is a mixture of pure yellow gold and copper. Copper is added to the alloy to create a sparkly light pinkish colour.

What Is The Difference Between Yellow Gold And White Gold?

Yellow gold in its natural form slightly reddish yellow in colour. In its pure form it very soft therefore it has to be combined with other harder alloy metals such as zinc, copper or silver to make it more durable for jewellery and create different colour tones. 

18ct White Gold Jewellery is made from yellow gold however to create white gold it gets metal such as manganese or palladium to create a whiter look. The bright and sparkly finish for white gold jewellery is polished with a metal called rhodium.

Is 18ct Rose Gold real solid Gold?​

18ct Rose gold jewellery is real solid gold as long as one of the following carat weights are bought, 9ct, 14ct or 18ct. However, it’s very uncommon for it to be acquired in 22ct gold.

Always check for Hallmarking information if you have any doubt, as the rose gold colour is widely used ranging from mobile phone covers to handbags and we understand that it can sometimes be confusing.

At Auric Jewellery, we offer the full range of classical precious metals in our 18ct Rose Gold collection. In addition to 18ct gold chains and 18ct gold necklaces, handmade 18ct yellow-gold earrings.

Is Rose Gold jewellery Worth Less Than Yellow Gold jewellery?​

No. If one of the following carat weights are bought, 9ct, 14ct or 18ct value of the gold will remain the same regardless of it colour. For example, if you buy a yellow gold item and the carat is 18ct (750) then it will be made up of 75% pure yellow gold with 25% other metals. The same applies to white or rose gold jewellery which is both comprised of an alloy containing at least 18 carats.

Can Rose Gold jewellery tarnish Or fade?​

Real 18ct Rose gold jewellery has a deeper pink colour due to a higher percentage of copper in the alloy with pure gold. It is worth remembering that Rose Gold is not a coating but an alloy metal created with a pinkish colour tone. Although this is not guaranteed for plated or vermeil jewellery.

Learn how to look after your fine jewellery from Jewellery Care Guide.

what is gold-plated jewellery?

Gold-plated jewellery is often used to refer to a layer of gold plating applied over the surface of another metal. Normally this metal is brass or copper.

The gold plating is often very thin, and can peel off over time. The brass or copper underneath the gold coating will then show through to create a contrasting effect.

Gold-plated jewellery tends to be cheaper than solid gold jewellery because it uses less expensive materials in its construction. It’s also not as durable as pure metals like gold due to the vulnerability of the underlying material being exposed after repeated wearings due to the thin layer that comprises most plating jobs on any given piece.

where can i find more information about hallmarking?

Please feel free to call us on +44(0) 121 517 0247 or email us at [email protected] if you have any more questions about Hallmarking. Alternatively a more detailed guide is also available on Gov.uk website and can be assessed here .

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